Cooking Issues · Heritage Radio Network

Lick it, Smear it, Make It Moist (feat. Jeremy Umansky and Rich Shih)

·1 hr 12 min·5 clips
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This Cooking Issues episode features host Dave Arnold alongside regulars Nastassia Lopez and Matt, with special guest Jeremy Umansky discussing fermentation and preservation techniques. Jeremy Umansky is a chef and author known for his expertise in koji and innovative food processing methods. The conversation centers on practical applications of fermentation in both professional kitchens and home cooking. The episode explores the science behind lacto-fermentation, focusing on how salt concentration affects microbial activity and food safety. Umansky details his method for creating miso using different grains and legumes, highlighting the role of Aspergillus oryzae. He explains the process of growing koji on various substrates like barley, rice, and chickpeas to develop unique flavors. Specific techniques for dry-curing egg yolks with koji are described as a way to create a savory, umami-rich condiment. The discussion covers the safety parameters for fermenting seafood, referencing historical practices from Nordic cuisine. Umansky advocates for using whole animals in butchery, discussing methods to utilize off-cuts through curing and fermentation. A caller's question about preventing mold growth on fermented hot sauce leads to a detailed explanation of managing pH and oxygen exposure. Umansky claims that koji-inoculated salts can rapidly transform the texture and flavor of proteins, a process he calls "shio koji." He argues that many food safety fears around home fermentation are overstated if basic principles of salinity and acidity are followed. An interesting segment compares the microbial ecology of sourdough starters to that of spontaneous meat ferments. The guest presents a case for fermented garlic honey as both a versatile condiment and a home remedy. A surprising claim is that certain fermented vegetable brines can be used as effective meat tenderizers. The most memorable moment involves a debate on whether it's safe to consume the surface mold that forms on certain aged charcuterie. The tone is highly conversational and technical, with Dave Arnold frequently interjecting with scientific questions. The style is educational but informal, filled with kitchen anecdotes and personal experimentation stories. Listeners interested in the science of fermentation, DIY food preservation, and advanced culinary techniques will find this episode deeply engaging. Those seeking simple recipes or uninterested in detailed microbiological discussions might prefer to skip it.
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