The Changing Tastes of Wine: Trends, Innovation, and Restaurant Realities with Chef David Slay

·48 min·4 clips

Chef David Slay explains why wine's story and earth-driven nuances intrigue him more than any spirit.

Paul Kalemkiarian opens the episode by discussing wine's story and taste with guest Chef David Slay, who contrasts it with spirits. Slay shares observations on changing consumer tastes, noting older restaurant patrons bring big Bordeaux and Italians, while younger guests opt for screw-top and orange wines. He adapts his winemaking to consumer demand, focusing on lower alcohol and lighter styles. Slay reports alcohol consumption is at its lowest since the 1950s, impacting his restaurant wine lists, which dropped from 350 to 150 bottles. He discusses price points, mentioning an average bottle price of $165 for reds and difficulty selling $60 bottles in Manhattan Beach. The conversation shifts to distributor consolidation, with Slay criticizing block booking tactics and sharing how he forced purveyors to remove products. He talks about his restaurant group, including FET, Slay Steak and Fish, Slay Italian Kitchen, and Slay Hermosa, with over 200 employees. Slay reflects on his culinary training in France 40 years ago and how American cuisine, particularly California cuisine, has influenced global food trends. He emphasizes the importance of business skills like Excel and QuickBooks for chefs, beyond just cooking. Slay discusses staffing, paying dishwashers $18 an hour eight years ago to reduce turnover, and implementing a no-tip policy with a full pull system. He touches on COVID-19 impacts, with Caymus and Silver Oak initially avoiding online sales then returning post-pandemic. Slay considers reopening restaurants in Orange County and shares his routine of visiting all locations daily. He downplays the importance of online reviews but values Michelin Guide standards. The episode concludes with Slay's commitment to seasonal, fresh ingredients and fixing customer complaints, paralleling Paul's approach in the wine business.

As heard by us

A glass of wine leads into a candid look at restaurant costs, supplier leverage, and the work behind hospitality.

Wine becomes the doorway into a conversation about taste, place, and the pleasure of noticing what grapes and earth can do, before the glass lands beside the harder arithmetic of keeping a restaurant open.

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Why you'd press play

Wondering why a simple meal suddenly feels expensive? Start with wine, rent, invoices, and a chef who lives by the P&L.

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