The Run-Through with Vogue · Vogue

The Most Impactful Shows of the Century So Far According to Vogue Editors

·40 min·2 clips
Alessandro Michele's first Gucci show contained the ideas that later reshaped the brand and its surrounding fashion culture.
1. The Run-Through with Vogue revisits the Vogue editors' selections for the most impactful fashion shows of the last 25 years. 2. Nicole Phelps hosts Laird Borelli-Person, Virginia Smith, and Mark Waducci, Vogue editors and fashion critics whose work informs the show's retrospective list. 3. The episode asks whether fashion impact is measured by personal favorites, spectacle, historical importance, or a designer's broader influence. 4. Vogue readers placed Versace Spring 2018 at the top of their list after Donatella Versace honored Gianni Versace's 1990s work. 5. Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Helena Christensen, Carla Bruni, and Kaia Gerber made the Versace show a meeting of established and emerging models. 6. The editors connect Versace Spring 2018 to 2018 Google Trends interest in nostalgia and to Instagram's circulation of fashion archives. 7. Tom Ford's 2010 debut restricted photography, creating a small and private show that included Beyoncé, Julianne Moore, and Lauren Hutton on the runway. 8. Sarah Burton's Spring 2020 Alexander McQueen collection combined signature tailoring with casting that included Kaia, Vittoria, Stella Tennant, and Jill Kortlandt. 9. Jonathan Anderson's Loewe Spring 2023 pixel look was designed to make a strong image online, while the collection paired it with an updated pannier dress. 10. Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent Fall 2023 collection used oversized shoulders inspired by Working Girl to give women a larger silhouette. 11. Tom Browne's Fall 2023 Paris couture debut placed guests backstage at the Opera Garnier before revealing cardboard Tom Browne avatars across the seats. 12. Mathieu Blazy's Bottega Veneta Spring 2023 collection made a leather flannel shirt resemble real flannel and placed it on Kate Moss. 13. The editors identify recency bias in the Reader's Choice list because the last decade supplied most of its selections. 14. Mark Waducci says Instagram has trained designers to create runway images that stand out in algorithmically distributed feeds. 15. Virginia Smith sees Dries van Noten's inclusion as significant because his clothes, rather than overt showmanship, carry the impact. 16. The editors compare current Miu Miu fandom with the role Prada held for many people in the 1990s. 17. Nicolas Ghesquière's Balenciaga Fall collection is remembered for mixing collegiate jackets, Ecop prints, and jodhpurs in a way that changed how editors styled their own wardrobes. 18. Alessandro Michele's Gucci Fall 2015 debut and Demna's first Balenciaga show are presented as moments when a designer's direction appeared fully formed and altered expectations. 19. The conversation is an informal, detail-heavy roundtable that moves chronologically through reader picks, editor picks, and reflections on missed shows. 20. Fashion archivists, runway followers, and designers' work-focused readers will appreciate the episode.
Listen to the show on