Highlander Podcast · Outdoor Product Design & Development

Charles Ross | Lecturer @ Royal College of Art | Outdoor Product Design & Development

·1 hr 14 min·5 clips

One dump truck of textiles is dumped or burned every single second—can the outdoor industry stop this waste?

Charles Ross, a lecturer at the Royal College of Art, speaks to students about sustainability and performance apparel. He leads the performance sportswear design program and critiques the industry's focus on technicality over aesthetics. Ross argues that the most successful brands merge technical performance with fashionable design, a space he calls "gorpcore." He highlights the disconnect between marketing technical features and consumers buying based on look. Ross references design figures like Buckminster Fuller, who created the geodesic tent for The North Face, and trend consultant Li Edelkoort. He criticizes the fashion industry's homogeneity, where expensive trend briefings lead to identical designs. Ross emphasizes the urgent need to address overconsumption, explaining that a 3% annual compound growth rate means production doubles every 25 years. He cites economist Jason Hickel's book "Less is More" and designer Vivienne Westwood's mantra: "choose well, buy expensive, make it last." Ross discusses Patagonia's philosophy, quoting director Vincent Stanley on the dangers of greenwashing in the information age. He notes that Gen Z consumers can quickly dismantle a brand's reputation if its sustainability claims are false. Ross points out that both companies and consumers often exaggerate their environmental efforts. He introduces Kate Raworth's "Doughnut Economics" model as a framework for balancing human needs with planetary boundaries. Ross shares a stark statistic: one dump truck of textiles is landfilled or incinerated every second globally. He states the apparel industry is among the top ten most polluting, though often incorrectly cited as the second. The presentation covers impending EU and U.S. legislation, like the EU Green Deal and New York's Fashion Act, focusing on eco-design, transparency, and greenwashing. Ross defines eco-design as making products repairable, from recycled materials, and with a clear afterlife. He explains the concept of a circular economy, where extending a product's life is more impactful than simply using low-impact materials. He discusses "emotional durability" as being more critical than physical durability for keeping garments in use. Ross advocates for regenerative agriculture, explaining how it sequesters carbon, improves soil health, and prevents flooding. He mentions Patagonia's former CEO Rose Marcario as a leader in this field. Ross covers innovations like carbon-capture yarns and the looming shortage of recycled polyester as plastic bottles are diverted back to bottle production. He clarifies that microplastic pollution is a serious issue, but ocean warming and overfishing are greater threats to marine health. The talk concludes with the complex global supply chain of a Gore-Tex jacket and the science of waterproof breathable membranes. The tone is conversational, educational, and laced with self-deprecating British humor. Ross uses vivid analogies, personal anecdotes, and direct appeals to the student audience. This episode is ideal for design students, outdoor industry professionals, and anyone interested in sustainable fashion and the realities of apparel production. Listeners seeking a light entertainment podcast or those averse to data-heavy environmental discussions might find it less engaging.

As heard by us

A grounded look at why lasting gear is a design choice, not a slogan.

Charles Ross, a lecturer at the Royal College of Art in London, gives OPDD students a practical talk on sustainability, performance apparel, and cutting consumption.

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Why you'd press play

You want a sustainability talk about outdoor apparel and reducing consumption.

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