Gravy · Southern Foodways Alliance

The Miracle of Slaw and Fishes: Louisiana’s Lenten Fish Fries

February 18, 2026·19 min·1 clip

Raymond Vavasour reveals the 14-hour days and secret recipe that make St. Francis' fish fry a community staple.

This episode explores the cultural and communal significance of Lenten fish fries in Catholic communities across Louisiana. Host Sarah Holtz, a reporter based in Oakland, visits Acadiana to document how these Friday meals function as both religious observance and vital social fundraisers. The episode features voices from church volunteers, restaurant workers, and locals like writer Lucy Monk-Carter to illustrate the tradition's deep roots. Lenten fish fries serve as economic engines for churches, volunteer fire departments, and school sports leagues throughout the six-week season. At St. Francis of Assisi Church in Breaux Bridge, volunteers like Raymond Vavasour work 14-hour days to serve plates of fried catfish, fries, coleslaw, and a roll. St. Pius X Church in Lafayette, through its Knights of Columbus council, serves roughly 400 dinners each Friday using a drive-thru operation. Old Town Grocery, a po'boy shop near the University of Louisiana at Lafayette, sees its Friday sandwich output surge from about 800 to 2,000 orders during Lent. Lucy Monk-Carter explains that Lent commemorates the 40 days Jesus spent in the desert, with Mardi Gras acting as a final celebration before the solemn period. Raymond Vavasour considers his extensive volunteer work at the St. Francis fish fry to be his primary Lenten sacrifice and penance. The recipe for the catfish at St. Francis has evolved from being pan-fried in a little oil to using a deep fryer, with head cook Clovis Sylvester guarding the specifics. Brian DeCue, a 42-year Knight of Columbus member, helped organize the St. Pius fry based on a model he saw in New Orleans, and notes the event has fostered an "instant family" among volunteers. At Old Town Grocery, employees who work the demanding Lenten season earn exclusive, non-purchasable graphic T-shirts that commemorate each year's experience. John Pastor, who works at Old Town, describes the chaotic, high-energy kitchen where a crew of 17 works in tight coordination to meet demand. Lucy Monk-Carter observes that living in South Louisiana means being connected to Catholic traditions, joking that "even the Jews are Catholic here," illustrated by Temple Sinai hosting a crawfish boil. The tradition adapts to modern dining culture, with St. Pius X accepting credit cards and operating a drive-thru to serve its steady stream of customers. Brian DeCue connects the communal welcome of the fish fries to the historical Acadian exile, suggesting it's part of the local cultural fabric. John Pastor frames the Lenten fish fry as a testament to Acadian adaptability and survival, calling it a "silent, but yet glaring example of our backstory." Notably, Raymond Vavasour estimates that 75% of their customers at St. Francis are not parishioners, with some driving over 20 miles for the food. The episode maintains a warm, narrative, and observational tone, following the reporter's journey as an outsider welcomed into these community spaces. Its style is richly descriptive, blending personal reflection with oral history and vivid scene-setting from the bustling church halls and restaurant kitchens. Listeners interested in food culture, community traditions, or the intersection of faith and daily life in the American South would find this episode compelling. Those seeking a purely theological discussion or a fast-paced debate might find the pace and focus too specific.

As heard by us

A warm church-hall portrait of Louisiana Lenten fish fries as faith, fundraising, and volunteer devotion.

Louisiana's Lenten fish fries come through as faith practice, fundraiser, and volunteer ritual, with fried catfish pulling parishioners and neighbors into the same church hall.

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Why you'd press play

A Louisiana church volunteer calls the Friday fish fry his Lenten penance, and guards the catfish recipe accordingly.

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