Deep in the Weeds - A Food Podcast with Anthony Huckstep · A Deep in the Weeds Production

Kumar Mahadevan (Abhi’s, Sydney) - The guru of Indian Downunder

·24 min

This episode features Anthony Huckstep interviewing Kumar Mahadevan, the celebrated owner of Abhi's restaurant in Sydney. Mahadevan is widely recognized as a guru of Indian cuisine in Australia, having run his restaurant for over three decades. He discusses his journey from arriving in Australia in 1985 to becoming a defining figure in the country's culinary landscape. Mahadevan opened Abhi's in North Strathfield in July 1990, choosing a humble, affordable location in a suburb not known for dining. He aimed to serve Indian food that broke from the "run-of-the-mill" options available at the time. A pivotal 1994 review by food critic Les Luxford in the Sydney Morning Herald dramatically boosted the restaurant's profile. Signature dishes that have remained on the menu since day one include the palak patta papdi chaat, a gluten-free spinach-based chaat, and the paddy chicken smoked in a charcoal tandoor. In 2003, Mahadevan expanded by opening Aki's at Woolloomooloo Wharf, a venture that allowed him to work with premium Australian produce like bug, quail, and duck. He explains that the restaurant names derive from his sons, Abhinav and Akilesh. Mahadevan was originally sent to Australia by the Indian government to promote Indian food at a tea center restaurant. After that venture closed, an Italian restaurant owner encouraged him to return to Indian cuisine, leading to his partnership with Doug Moxon. He describes how regional Indian cuisine varies, with southern food from his native Tamil Nadu being spicier and lighter due to the hot climate, while northern dishes are richer and creamier. The closure of Aki's in 2020 due to COVID-19 was a difficult commercial decision after 17 years of operation. A key insight is Mahadevan's philosophy that restaurant longevity depends on treating the business as a team sport, not a solo endeavor. He credits his consistent staff, including a head chef with over 25 years of service, as a major secret to his success. He stresses that passion and a "fire in the belly" are essential, warning that hospitality is not a guaranteed investment. An interesting moment is his recollection of serving high-profile clients like King Charles and Elton John at his first government-posted restaurant. He also shares a charming anecdote about a young boy writing him a note praising the paddy chicken. The conversation is reflective and educational, focusing on culinary history, business resilience, and cultural adaptation. The tone is warm and conversational, with Huckstep guiding the narrative through Mahadevan's personal and professional milestones. This episode is perfect for food enthusiasts, aspiring restaurateurs, and anyone interested in immigrant success stories and the evolution of ethnic cuisine in Australia. Listeners seeking a highly produced, fast-paced narrative or deep culinary technique might find it less engaging.

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