Critical Fashion Studies Podcast · Critical Fashion Studies Research Group

Reinvigorating Australia’s Knitwear Industry with Kirri-Mae Sampson

·34 min·3 clips

Kirime Samson explains how processing Australian wool locally could unlock $100 billion in economic value.

Dr. Harriet Richards, a fashion lecturer at RMIT, interviews Kirime Samson, co-founder of the circular knitwear manufacturer Hatch & Mac. They explore efforts to rebuild Australia's domestic knitwear production despite the country exporting 98% of its wool. Samson explains Hatch & Mac was founded in 2021 with partners Dave Giles-Kaye and Nigel Whelan, operating a small factory in Victoria's Yarra Valley. The business is built on circular economy principles from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, aiming to eliminate waste and regenerate natural systems. Australia produces roughly a quarter of the world's wool, with Samson citing a 2016-17 export value of $3.6 billion for wool tops. She notes processing that wool locally into garments could multiply its economic value up to twelvefold. The conversation uses the "Dancing Daisies" blanket, made for the brand Seljack, as a case study for their collaborative design process. Designer partners Sam and Karina visited the studio for workshops, translating a six-color graphic into a knit pattern optimized for a three-color machine. They selected 100% non-mulesed, BlueSign-approved merino wool and bio-based labels to facilitate eventual composting. Samson details the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), which ensures animal welfare and prohibits mulesing, while acknowledging the practice's complex context for some Australian farmers. A surprising insight is that yarn suppliers could not provide definitive data on their products' end-of-life biodegradability, prompting Seljack to conduct independent composting tests. The Hatch & Mac facility itself runs on solar power and rainwater, overcoming industry skepticism about using tank water for wet processing. A significant challenge is Australia's knitwear skills shortage, which Samson addressed through a remote fellowship with Knitwear Lab in the Netherlands to learn linking—a precise technique for assembling knitted pieces. The company uses 100% cotton waste yarn during production, stockpiling it for recycling instead of using synthetic alternatives. Samson finds inspiration in brand partners who readily adopt commitments to natural fibers for all garment components, including buttons and embroidery. Future plans include hosting an annual sale for imperfect samples and prototypes with partner brands to prevent landfill waste. The episode maintains an educational and conversational tone, blending industry analysis with a specific business case study. Listeners interested in sustainable fashion, local manufacturing, and circular economy applications in textiles would find this episode valuable. Those seeking broad cultural commentary or fast-paced narrative might find the focused, technical discussion less engaging.

As heard by us

A patient, technical look at Australian knitwear production and the mechanics of rebuilding it locally.

The episode follows Australian wool from export into local knitwear production, and it gives the topic unusually clear technical attention. Its strongest stretch is the practical one: machine limits, color choices, yarn sourcing, blue sign approval, and bio-based labels make…

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Why you'd press play

If you want to hear how knitwear gets made, sourced, and rethought from the inside.

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