Carina's laundry comes back soaked in gasoline, forcing her to ride through the freezing desert in wet clothes.
Carina, the narrator, begins her diary entry on March 17th, recounting the previous day's laundry mishap where her clothes were returned unwashed and soaked in gasoline from a fuel spill. She sets off at 5 AM in wet gear, shivering in the cold desert darkness while riding in convoy between Land Cruisers. She reflects on the harshness faced by professional Dakar riders. After sunrise, the group travels 400 km to the Mauritanian border, hiring a fixer to navigate the bureaucratic process, which takes about five hours. They cross into Mauritania, noting the immediate cultural shock of trash piles and poor infrastructure. Their support vehicles get stuck at the border, risking an overnight stay in no-man's-land. They find accommodation in Nouadhibou, describing the city's slums, pollution, and stark poverty. The next day involves a 480 km straight asphalt transfer to Nouakchott, with observations on the landscape and random police checkpoints requiring 'fish' documents. Carina discusses fuel quality issues and the necessity of filters. On March 20th, she describes a 430 km road trip to Atar, staying in a cozy caravan and reuniting with the rally group who endured deep sand sections. She praises her GasGas motorcycle's reliability. The following day starts with a stressful morning leading to an emotional crying episode while riding. The group tackles a 180 km gravel road with extreme washboard sections that damage motorcycles and vehicles. A rider fixes multiple flat tires. Carina receives news that she passed her Master's thesis with a 1.8 grade. She reflects on the journey's lessons about privilege and gratitude, looking forward to the final week to Dakar.
